A Local’s Guide to Indian Food in London You Can’t Miss and what English People love to Eat
Ask a group of English people what their national cuisine is, and you might be surprised by the answer.
Yes, some people will say fish and chips. Or roast dinners. Or pie and mash.
But for many, England’s finest food comes from somewhere else entirely. Curry restaurants – specifically South Asian curry (Indian, Bengali, Pakistani and Sri Lankan) – are a staple of English towns. Even in the rural part of South West England I grew up in, there were several top quality Indian restaurants.
The hubs of England’s Indian food scene are found all over the country – especially in the Midlands and the North. Places few tourists go, like Bradford, Leicester and Birmingham.
But as with almost everything in England, London is one of the best spots too. All over the city are neighbourhoods with large, established South Asian communities, and some of the best food you’re likely to try.
This is my guide of the best places for Indian food in the capital – including the main hotspots, the best restaurants, and several authentic neighborhoods rarely found in a guidebook.
Brick Lane – Central London’s Curry Mile
Of all the neighbourhoods in this list, Brick Lane is the most iconic. It has the history and the heritage.
Bangladeshi immigrants started moving to this part of East London in the 1960s, and in the ‘80s and ‘90s it became known as London’s curry mile.
In the last 20 years it’s changed a lot. Rents have gone up, forcing long standing communities out, and tourists have flooded in, but Brick Lane still holds an important role in London’s culinary cuisine.
And there are still some of London’s most historic curry houses here. Sheba has been open since the 1970s. Understated inside, it’s award winning, and one of the best spots for an East End curry – especially known for its lamb shank.
Here’s a video visit to Sheba restaurant in Brick Lane Below for inspiration
Nearby, another great option City Spice is a bit flashier, but has also won awards, known for its tandoori grills. (Be warned – there are lots of different curry and restaurant awards, and many of the restaurants along Brick Lane have won one at some time or another…)
Brick Lane is one of the few places in London where you’ll get hassled by restaurant staff offering you a good deal – maybe a free cobra or a discounted meal. It’s part of the experience.
If you’re in the area, Brick Lane is also famous for its bagels – spelt beigels here. Expect to queue at the iconic Beigel Bake, open 24/7.
Check out the long lines at Bagel Bake below, it really looks delicious
Wiki Commons License attribution File:Tayyabs, Whitechapel, London (4845460501).jpg – Wikimedia Commons
Beyond Brick Lane, East London has a whole host of excellent places for curry. East Ham’s high road is lined with vegetarian Indian restaurants, while Whitechapel has several curry institutions, most notably Tayyabs.
Tooting – South London’s curry capital
About 25 minutes from central London on the Northern Line, Tooting is a part of the city few tourists venture to. They should, for one reason: its food scene.
London’s Mayor Sadiq Khan is from this neighbourhood, which has long had a strong South Asian presence, and some of the many restaurants along the High Road will proudly display his approval.
There are many popular spots here. Lahore Karahi is one excellent option for authentic Pakistani cuisine, busy on weekends, and regularly doing well in votes for the best curry in London. Some of the lamb curries are stunning.
Here’s a quick video tour of Lahore Karahi below for inspiration
Dawat is another favorite, which has been an institution in the area for decades. It’s done so well that Dawat has now opened a few other locations across London. Go for the dhal.
Here’s aquick video tour experience and specialty foods offered at Dawat in London below
Wiki Commons License File:Masala dosa 01.jpg – Wikimedia Commons
The other restaurant I want to mention in Tooting is the first one I ever tried, and I’ve been back many times since: Dosa ‘n’ Chutney. It changed owners a few years ago but is still top quality. As the name suggests, dosa is its specialty; though everything on the menu is delicious.
During late Spring/early Summer Tooting is famous for its shops and market stalls selling South Asian mangoes, including Alphonso, Badami and Kesar varieties. During mango season you’ll find them for sale all along the High Road.
Central London
In Fitzrovia and Central London, you’ll find some of England’s oldest Indian restaurants. Very different to the spots on Brick Lane or in Tooting, this is where London’s India restaurants meet fine dining – many of them with a colonial history.
During the 19th century, British officers returning from colonial India wanted to recreate the flavours they’d become accustomed to. Curry – though it was heavily anglicised – became popular in some upper class circles.
The oldest is Veeraswamy, founded in 1926 (in fact it’s the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in the whole of London!). It has elegant interiors and, though the prices are much higher than many other places on this list, excellent food, attested to by its Michelin star.
Check out London’ts oldest Indian Restaurant at Veerasamy below for inspiration
Other restaurants like Gymkhana are much newer, but hark back to the era from the early 20th century, with Raj-era interiors. What Gymkhana lacks in age, it makes up in Michelin stars: it has two of them!
For a real taste of modern Indian-British cuisine, go to Dishoom, which combines old-school interiors with fresh takes on the food. There are several across London, and it’s very, very popular. Try the Black Dhaal.
Here’s a look at Dishoom in London on this video tour below
Under Wiki Commons license File:The Gujarati Thali.jpg – Wikimedia Commons
Drummond Street
Just around the corner from the chaos of Euston Station, Drummond Street is easy to miss. But when you know about it, you’ll keep coming back.
It’s a tight little street lined with long-standing, family-run Indian restaurants, many vegetarian or vegetarian friendly.
No menus shouting from the door. No Instagram bait. Just the smell of sizzling dosa batter and cardamom-spiked tea wafting through the air. Like Brick Lane and Tooting, this area’s heritage goes back decades, with a strong South Indian presence.
It’s a great place for authentic cuisine. One speciality to try in the area is masala dosa.
Whenever I’ve visited, I’ve gone without a particular restaurant in mind and jumped in wherever takes my fancy. This has never let me down so far. But if you do want a specific place in mind, I’d suggest Chutney’s, simple interiors belying its exquisite food.
Nearby is Roti King – a Malaysian restaurant, where you might have to queue, but it’s worth it.
Other notable restaurants
Although the areas in this blog are some of the main neighbourhoods for South Asian food, you’ll find excellent restaurants all across the city. A few ones I want to point out include:
- Vijay’s in Kilburn, claiming to be the oldest South Indian restaurant in London. It’s a bit out of the way but very affordable with an extensive and utterly divine menu.
- Saravana Bhavan – a global vegetarian Indian restaurant chain, with excellent Dosas. There are several across London.
- Brilliant in Southall – a part of London with a large Indian population and excellent Punjabi food. Brilliant is one of many, well, brilliant restaurants in this part of London. Gordon Ramsey is a fan.
- East West – something a bit different, an Italian-Indian fusion restaurant in Tufnell Park (close to Camden Town), serving excellent pizzas with Indian twists (like chicken tikka masala pizza!)
Flicker attribute Chicken Tikka Masala | Rasika West End, Washington DC | T.Tseng | Flickr
London’s Indian food heritage is deep and delicious, and always evolving. Don’t miss your chance to try it while you’re here.
Check out these other London Topics
Eating London – a delicious food tour
25 cool and fun places to visit in London
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About the author
Jamie is the writer behind What’s down that street?, a travel blog for people who want more than just a checklist. Based in London, he writes about underrated neighbourhoods in the city, and has recently developed London’s Museum Guide.